Trimmed the top, then routed for the binding.

When the finished soundbox of the Boomer came out of clamps this morning, the tap tone was terrific. The sound is tight and big.

I routed off the lip left by the top, and then routed the top and bottom of the guitar with a special bit for binding. The only trick is to make sure you leave the depth set so the binding (oce glued) stands just proud of the surface of the top/bottom. Then it will sand flush. If the binding is lower than the top/bottom and you sand it flush you end up with endgrain showing and it looks like pre-boiled ass.


I used to use a weird contraption to hold the router perfectly perpendicular to the sides while routing, involving hinges and parallelograms and weird bearings. It was too much. I freehand it now. I find that a man, terrified of ruining several weeks of work and/or taking off a finger, can do as good a job holding a router true and steady as a more elaborate contraption. If I start binding curved tops I’ll need the contraption again, but with a flat top, it’s not needed.

I glued the binding on with about 100 pieces of blue tape and now I wait a day.

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